The cuisine of the Sephardi Jews is an assortment of cooking traditions that developed among the Jews of Spain, the Mediterranean, Turkey and Arab countries. Jews in the Diaspora, both Ashkenazim and Sephardim, cooked foods that were popular in their countries of residence, adapting them to the requirements of kashrut. Their choice of foods was also determined by economic factors, with many of the dishes based on inexpensive and readily available ingredients. Meat had to be slaughtered in keeping with Jewish dietary laws, and then soaked and salted. Hence it was reserved for holidays and special occasions. Many Sephardi dishes use ground meat. Milk and meat products could not be mixed or served at the same meal. Cooked, stuffed and baked vegetables are central to the cuisine, as are various kinds of beans, chickpeas, lentils and burghul (cracked wheat). Rice takes the place of potatoes.
History
Jews lived in the Iberian Peninsula until their expulsion in 1492. When they left, they took with them traditions of cooking that have remained until today. The Jews of Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, Bulgaria, Turkey, Yemen, Iraq, Syria, Egypt and Iran all adapted local dishes to the constraints of the kosher kitchen. Since the establishment of the State of Israel and the convergence of Jews from all the globe in Israel, these local cuisines, with all their differences, have come to represent the collection of culinary traditions known as “Sephardi cuisine.”
Sephardi and Ashkenazi cuisine: similarities
Like Jewish cuisine everywhere, Sephardi cuisine was influenced by the laws of kashrut and the observance of Jewish holidays, with its array of symbolic foods. Although Jews were dispersed throughout the world, all Jewish communities abided by a core of religious law that was universal: They kept kosher, observed Shabbat and celebrated Jewish holidays. Like Ashkenazi Jews, Sephardi Jews maintained the separation between meat and milk, ate only kosher meat, and developed cooking techniques that allowed them to eat a hot meal on Shabbat. They ate a pre-fast meal before Yom Kippur, foods fried in oil on Hanukkah and matzah on Passover. But it was the local culture of the lands where they lived that shaped the finer details.
Sephardi and Ashkenazi cuisine: differences
Coming from the Mediterranean and “sunny” climes, Sephardi cuisine is lighter in character than Ashkenazi cuisine, with an emphasis on salads, stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, olive oil, lentils, fresh and dried fruits, herbs and nuts, and chickpeas. Meat dishes often make use of lamb or ground beef. Fresh lemon juice is added to many soups and sauces. Many meat and rice dishes incorporate dried fruits such as apricots, prunes and raisins. Pine nuts are used as a garnish. Pomegranate juice is a staple of Persian Jewish cooking. Kubbeh, a meat-stuffed burghul dumpling, features in the cooking of many Sephardi communities. It is served in the cooking broth, as a kind of soup.
Fish and Meat
On Shabbat, the Jews of North Africa serve hreime, fish in a spicy tomato sauce.
Herbs and Spices
Cumin, coriander and tumeric are very common in Sephardi cooking. Cardamom (”hel”) is used to flavor coffee. Chopped fresh coriander and parsley are popular garnishes. Chopped mint is added to salads and cooked dishes, and fresh mint leaves (”nana”) are served in tea. Cinnamon is sometimes used as a meat seasoning, especially ground meat. Hilbe, a paste made from fenugreek seeds and hot pepper, is added to many traditional Yemenite dishes. Skhug, a hot pepper sauce, comes in two varieties, red and green.
Desserts and Beverages
Tiny cups of Turkish coffee, sometimes spiced with cardamom, are often served at the end of a festive meal, accompanied by small portions of baklawa or other pastries dipped in syrup or honey. Hot sahlab, a liquidy cornstarch pudding originally flavored with orchid powder (today invariably replaced by artificial flavorings), is served in cups as a winter drink, garnished with cinnamon, nuts, coconut and raisins. Arak is the preferred alcoholic beverage. Rosewater is a common ingredient in cakes and desserts. Malabi, a cold cornstarch pudding, is sprinkled with rosewater and red syrup.
Pickles and Condiments
Olives and pickled vegetables, such as cucumbers, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, are a standard accompaniment to meals. Amba is a pickled mango sauce. Small pickled lemons are a Moroccan Jewish delicacy.
Cooking techniques
As cooking on Shabbat is prohibited, Sephardi Jews, like their Ashkenazi counterparts, developed slow-cooked foods that would simmer on a low flame overnight and be ready for eating the next day.The Sephardi version of cholent is called “chamin” (from the word “cham,” which means “hot”). The potatoes and barley used in Ashkenazi cholent are replaced by rice and hard boiled eggs. Burekas are often served on Shabbat morning. In Yemenite cooking, Shabbat dishes include jahnun and kubbanah.
Passover
Sephardi and Ashkenazi cooking differs on Passover. One of the food categories forbidden to Ashkenazi Jews on the holiday is kitniyot, which includes rice and a variety of beans and pulses. As these foods are staples of the Sephardi diet, Sephardi rabbis ruled that their consumption is permissible. This has major implications for cooking, as many of the oils used in modern kitchens are derived from kitniyot (soybean, corn, sunflower and rapeseed).
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