A SEPHARDIC HANUKKAH FROM THE JEWS OF THE ISLAND OF RHODES by Stella Cohen

Fiesta de Las Kandelikas

The Judeo-Spanish Jews who settled in Rhodes Island and Turkey from Spain after the 1492 edict of expulsion took on the custom of celebrating Hanukkah – Las Kandelikas.

In their adopted Ottoman homeland they commemorated the victory of the Maccabees over the Syrian-Greeks and the rededication of the temple in Jerusalem. According to legend it is said that there was only enough pure olive oil to keep a Menorah burning for one day. Miraculously the flame was kept alight for eight days.  This was traditionally re-enacted by kindling a Menorah over the eight days. In Rhodes eight small glasses with a little water and a thick layer of oil on which wicks were floated and lit was used instead of a MenorahLas Kandelikas.

Typical Rhodesli Hanukkah meals include food fried in oil. Also savoured are dairy foods to remember Judith, who it is alleged defeated a Greek tyrant, feeding him with cheese and wine until he fell asleep.

Crispy cheese puffs, fritadikas de patata, are served as part of a meze; fried fish, peshkado frito, and potato chips accompanied with egg lemon sauce, agristada, and leek, potato and fresh herb fritters, keftes de prasa i patata; with a garlic dip, ajada are favourites at this festival.

Hanukkah desserts include the crispy doughnut puffs bathed in honey syrup, bimuelos, that hark back to Moorish Spain. Pastry puffs topped with honey, nuts and cinnamon, piticas; and a sublime rosewater scented rice pudding, sutlach; with chewy treats such as the almond and sesame seed brittle, boulukunio; and exquisite almond confections, masapan, are some of the dulses d’alegria – sweets reflecting joy and celebration at our table.  Also offered are Turkish delight, lokum, and halva.

This delicious food mirrors the culinary tapestry from medieval Spain and the opulence of the Ottoman Empire.

Recipe
Potato and cheese puffs – Fritadikas de patata

Here is a simple, tasty fried food, ideal for the Hanukkah table, that you can all start making for your family. These potato and cheese puffs are fast and simple and so delicious for the entire family. Traditionally they were served for breakfast with a drizzle of honey or appeared at the meze table with drinks. Kome kon gana. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

2¾lb – 3lb potatoes (about 6 medium potatoes), unpeeled
3 eggs, beaten
1 ½ cups grated kefalotiri or Parmesan cheese
½ cup grated feta cheese
salt and finely ground white pepper

For shallow frying:
Vegetable or grape-seed oil

Method :

PUT the potatoes in a pan with enough cold salted water to just cover. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 30-40 minutes or until tender, when pierced with a knife. Drain and, whilst still hot (using a fork to hold the potato steady and tongs to peel off the skin), peel and return to the pan for about 1 minute to dry off any excess moisture. Put through a potato ricer.

COMBINE all the ingredients in a large bowl. Pinch off walnut-sized pieces and shape into patties.

HEAT enough oil for shallow frying in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, gently drop 4-5 patties at a time in the oil, turning over once, until golden and crispy. If the fritters are browning too quickly lower the heat slightly.

REMOVE with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve hot.

STELLA’S HINT: As these puffs are fried in batches they can be kept warm in a 120ºC (250ºF) oven until all are fried.

Fuente: Stella’s Sephardic Table book

 

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